Lauren & Brittney do Europe

Archive for April, 2010

The end’s more mundane than I was picturing

Thursday, April 29th, 2010

Today was my very last day of German class!  The final is tomorrow and then I have another final on Monday, then the rest of the week is mine to pack, buy souvenirs, and CLEAN my room before I fly out on Friday.  Is it real?  No.  Have I put that much thought into it?  Not at all.  I’m not chomping at the bit to get home, nor am I drowning in tears about leaving.  True to form, our teacher knocked it outta the park today.  We had a mini-breakfast party with strawberries, cheesy rolls, and Quarkballchen (essentially German donut holes.)  She decorated the room and made us Schuletutes (school cones) something that German students get on their first day of school, filled with candy and pencils and stuff.  Mine was blue and covered in dinosaur stickers because of my motto “Never forget your dinosaur.”  We played a review game, which I won, so I got a little gold medal, a coffee cup with the German flag on it, and we all got shot glasses.  She’s the best!!

The weather this week has been absolutely perfect; coupled with the surprisingly light amount of homework I have makes for ample time to roam about town.  I usually stop for an afternoon pastry and then try to walk it off on my way home (how I will miss you, bakeries on every corner.)  My life is relatively boring, and I’ve mostly just been enjoying the calm before the inevitable storm of leaving.  Oh, on the good news from home front, I was elected Vice President of UI’s PRSSA chapter which I’m pretty excited about.  I was going to pitch a fit if I didn’t get on the exec board this year since I was last year, but thankfully that tantrum will be avoided. Natalie, I’m scouring the greater Hamburg area for keychains this weekend.  NPH made reservations for our first “official” date when I return, so there are definitely things to get excited about on the way to the airport.

Mujer al borde de un ataque de nervios

Wednesday, April 28th, 2010

Another Wednesday, another balmy night in Sevilla, another day closer to my pending anxiety attack over going home. I’ve managed to sleep a little bit since the Great Mosquito Incident of 2010, which helps to postpone said anxiety attack, and I just gracefully uncorked a bottle of Portuguese wine that I brought back from Lisbon. If that doesn’t pacify my nerves, I’m a lost cause.

It might be too early to start with the long, rambly, big-picture, introspective study-abroad-experience blog entries. The problem is, I started forming these thoughts two months ago. Francesca routinely yells at me when I say things like, “Oh my god, only XX days until we have to leave,” or, “Oh my god, do you realize how beautiful Sevilla is? Do you realize that we walk past the Giralda and the Cathedral just going to class every day?? Do you realize that in XX days we’ll be living in much uglier places???”

People told me that studying abroad is like freshman year of college all over again. Fortunately in my case, this semester doesn’t remotely resemble my freshman year at Iowa.

I didn’t come to Spain expecting to fall in love with Sevilla; I already made the mistake of going into college with high expectations only to be disappointed, and since then I was always slightly jealous of my friends who did fall in love with their respective universities and their respective college experiences. The connection I feel with Sevilla is probably the emotional tie I’ve never really felt with Iowa.

A side note, to clarify — I don’t dislike Iowa or my university. I’ve just never felt that unbridled excitement or sense of school spirit that so many of my Hawkeye peers possess. And clearly I’m not trying to prolong my college experience by adding on an extra semester or year; on the contrary, I’ll graduate a semester early in December. This, however, is another factor contributing to my pending nervous breakdown Re: Entering the so-called real world. But I’ll save that topic for another time and another captive audience that doesn’t want to hear me bitch about my masochistic decision to end my academic career prematurely.

Back on topic: I’m more nervous to return home than I was to come here. When I flew out of O’Hare in January there was a guarantee that I’d be back in less than five months. Leaving Sevilla isn’t accompanied by that same understanding. And as I started to explain, my time here has been much more valuable than I could have hoped for. I’ll come back to this idea later when I can do it more justice, hopefully without sounding like a Study Abroad Department propaganda pamphlet. Sometimes I feel a little ridiculous, like I’m living in a low-budget coming-of-age movie about a loser 21-year-old American chick trying to hold her own in Europe. I’d be willing to spice up a few stories about my time here, if anyone wants to buy the rights to the movie.

PS — I retitled this entry after I published it because we talked about Almodóvar in cine today, and yeah… sometimes I think I’m funny.

PPS (PSS?) — Anyone who has known me for a substantial period of time can tell you that I’m an avid journaler with a brain constantly on overdrive. Sorry, Brittney, if my uninteresting introspection substantially brings down our readership from this point on.

Berlin: a timeline

Monday, April 26th, 2010

Turns out there’s a LOT to see in Berlin.  I will make the bold statement that it’s by far the most historical city I’ve ever been to, or hey, might ever end up visiting, since all fantasies of any ventures outside Iowa for a long time involve  my ass on a beach, drink in hand/ the Vegas strip, drink in hand.  My most tourist-y trip to date started bright and early at 6 a.m. on Friday morning, and here now, a timeline of my weekend:

6 a.m. Wake up.  Throw together a bag of hopefully enough clothes and toiletries since someone stayed up far too late Skyping her boyfriend instead of packing the night before.  Also, wolf down an orange and banana with peanut butter because if I’m going to spending four hours on a bus with strangers, you best believe my blood sugar needs to be at a semi-tolerable level.

6:50 a.m. Get on charter bus, pretty stoked I have a seat all to myself.  I recognize a few of the other students from around campus.  The director lady greets us all auf Deutsch and explains the coming events without using English.  I understand her (this weekend was generally a huge Win in terms of my German comprehension. )

10:00 a.m. We stop at a rest stop, some students have started talking amongst themselves.  I eavesdrop like nobody’s business, about piss myself realizing I can still understand most of what they’re saying in Spanish.  Trilingualism, here I come.  Some people introduce themselves to me, turns out I am on the bus with: Finnish, Spanish, Turkish, Japanese, Korean, Colombian, Italian, and Russian students.  Their reactions were mixed when they found out where I’m from.  ”America.” “Ooooh!!”  or “America.”  ”Oh.”

11 a.m.- 2p.m. City tour by bus.  Berlin is extremely clean and cosmopolitan… and yet still completely defined by the Wall.  It’s a beautiful city, though it’s spread out and not up, and I don’t like those kind of cities.  I would say it’s my third favorite city in Germany (Munich and Hamburg, duh.)  There are literally hundreds of famous buildings– my brain was on severe overload from all the new information.  I was never a big history buff, but I found most all of the information gathered on this trip really interesting.

3 p.m.  Lunch at an Indian restaurant with three Russian students.  Note to self: you like Indian food, eat more of it.  Their English was not great, and obviously I haven’t brushed up on my Russian in a while, so we resorted to broken German and hand gestures and comfortable chewing silences.

8 p.m. My first (and I would in no way be offended if it were my last) opera.  We went to Strauss’ Salome.  I can appreciate having been, but I don’t find operatic singing nice on the ears at all.  The lyrics were thankfully projected on a small screen above the stage so I at least got a good German lesson.  From what I could understand, there’s this princess who sees and lusts after this hairy prophet guy who lives in the ground, but she can’t have him.  Her father then has her do a striptease for him, and in return she can have whatever she wants.  She wants the prophet guy’s body, after a lot of, “No!  Anything but that!” he gives in.  Well, kinda– turns out they’d had him decapitated, so really she only gets his bleeding head.  She kisses the head because she thinks he’s still alive (and apparently delusional, it is clearly bleeding all over the stage and herself) to which her father orders her to be killed.  The end scene is her being shot.

10 p.m. We go to a quiet bar.  I have a beer.  The other girls at my table order lemonade or orange juice.  One of them remarks at how quickly I drink.  I try to politely nod and say something about being thirsty.  We go back to our hostel.

Saturday– 10 a.m. Go to the Jewish Museum.  It’s actually pretty interesting, lots of artifacts from the Holocaust.

1 p.m.  I set off in search of the Wichtendahl Gallery.  Thankfully we were giving subway passes for the weekend and a map, so this is not as complicated as it otherwise could have been.  I introduce myself to the woman at the desk, turns out she’s the Wichtendahl who opened it.  She thinks it’s just the Bees Knees that I came and we share a name, so we chat a bit and exchange contact info.  For interested family members, I can fill you in on the details of this visit later.

3 p.m.  I find myself at Germany’s largest mall.  All of the sightseeing and museum-going had my brain a bit tired, so I had coffee crunch ice cream for lunch and went about window shopping.  And then some real shopping; may God bless H&M.  I bought two dresses, ideally I will buy 12 more before leaving (ok, at least two.)  Fun fact for my at home audience: I love dresses.  I love dressing up.  Unfortunately now that I have more of them, I want to buy shoes and jewelry to go with.  But mostly shoes.

8 p.m. We have a group dinner at an amazingly authentic Italian pizzeria and trattoria.  The pizzas for one person are the size of at least a medium back in the States.  They were fire-baked and everything.  I went home afterward and was in bed by 10.  Many of my counterparts went out and didn’t return til 7 a.m.  I need sleep, I LOVE sleep.  Also, if my friends at home aren’t around, I don’t particularly like drinking with strangers.  Not to mention those precious Euros could be used to buy new shoes (see above.)

Sunday– noon to 5 p.m. Tour of the German parliament building.  I was also uncharacteristically interested in this and learned lots o’ fun facts (my Facebook album has more info in the captions.)  The rest of the afternoon was ours to do whatever.  I went back to Checkpoint Charlie, which we’d seen on the city tour, and the wall.  We arrived back in Luneburg around 9 p.m.

OVERALL, this trip was a roaring success.  I’m really glad I did the group trip thing because the anxiety over getting on trains/ finding a hostel/ what to do where and when was essentially eliminated.  There’s so much stuff to see, and I feel I was able to really do it all in a short amount of time.  It was also by far the most intercultural experience I’ve had since coming here with all of our different nationalities and translating things for each other.  Going off on my own was also a growing up experience but ultimately the most fun.  This trip did make me miss my dad more than usual, not just all the WWII stuff, but the fact that I was very thirsty the whole time (he always seems to orchestrate a lot of water-buying when we first get someplace) and DMX’s “Back that Ass Up” came on my iPod during the bus ride home.   It’s one of his favorite songs to dance and sing to in his office, as I’m sure it is for many of your fathers as well.

Sleepless in Sevilla

Sunday, April 25th, 2010

I normally don’t update so obsessively, but insomnia and insanity have slowly crept in on me. This is my last refuge before attempting sleep tonight.

I could speculate for days about my inability to sleep, but the primary culprits are mosquitoes. Those pesky bastards have inundated the apartment. I wake up every five minutes to a sharp bzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz sound inside my ear and all around me, then spend the next 20 seconds smacking myself in the head in search of bugs, then turn on the light and prey on mosquitoes with a tissue in hand for 10 more minutes, smashing them into the walls and killing them with my bare hands when I have to. I don’t know if I’m more gratified or frustrated when I kill a mosquito that “bleeds,” because I know that sonofabitch is responsible for one of the 50,0000000 mosquito bites lining my arms, legs and neck. I feel very Go Ask Alice right now, very Midwestern meth addict, paranoid and hitting myself in the face to keep the bugs away. My #1 recommendation for this country: SCREENED WINDOWS.

On that note, I ate snails for dinner. Not the kind of snails that are doctored up by a chef so as to make you forget what you’re eating; you slurp these suckers right out of their hard shells, antennae and all. Oh, and then we watched the End of Feria Fireworks from the roof of the apartment. This day would be swell if I could end it on a better note instead of furiously scratching mosquito bites. Somebody please send NyQuil, or a horse tranquilizer.

A fourth and failed attempt at Feria

Friday, April 23rd, 2010

Tonight started off strong. I put a mild to moderate amount of effort into my appearance — the makeup was on-point. Left the house with Elisa and met with two of her friends before heading to our first caseta (tent) for the evening. I was linguistically on fire; definitely an “on” day for my Spanish. I was being sassy, joking with strangers, actually having a personality while interacting with Spaniards and generally dominating more than usual.

But then my heel broke in half (my favorite pair, Nordstrom Rack, the only ones I brought to Spain), another asshole grabbed me, this time sliding his grimy fucking hand almost halfway up my dress, and once again I was too slow and furious to do anything besides berate him in English and manage one Spanish expletive before flicking him off and walking away. So I limped home at 9:30 p.m., and on my way a group of obnoxious young Spaniards with fugly facial piercings cat-called me out the side of a bus. And right now in Chicago I’m missing what’s certain to be a great night with Rachel and Jean in honor of Jean’s 22nd birthday. Not to mention, I seriously miss those beezies.

We can go ahead and mark tonight as the first time since being here that I really, genuinely just kind of wanted to go home.

An open letter to the nation.

Thursday, April 22nd, 2010

Sevilla’s Feria de Abril makes me feel like a degenerate.

Dear Spain,

My body can’t handle more than two consecutive nights of drinking a dry sherry and 7up cocktail as if I needed it to breathe. Going to sleep two hours past dawn is a routine that my well being simply does not tolerate. Moreover, my pre-beach-trip waistline is furious about the Spanish tortillas and loaves of bread packed with mystery meat masked as meals that form the base of my makeshift personal food pyramid this week. Feria, you’ve been fun. You’ve been memorable — honestly, because diluted sherry isn’t strong enough to give me more than a sugar headache — but it’s Thursday. This shit needs to stop. Just for one night, I want to go to bed before the birds wake up. I want to go to bed with the birds? Goddamnit, I don’t know what I want, but Feria, I need some space. I guess what I’m trying to say is… why don’t we take a break? I’ll come back tomorrow. Maybe.

With reserved and cautious love,

Lauren

Feria is a flamenco-dress festival slash state fair slash week-long party. I am young; I am supposed to be capable of going weeks without sleep. I am supposed to think it’s badass when I roll back home around sunset. I’m not supposed to be an 80-year-old cat-collecting spinster trapped in the body of a 21-year-old (until my body explodes from carb abuse then deteriorates from sherry abuse). I only made it three nights into the week but I’m already cashing in on a personal day to do things like work on my magazine article, go for long walks by myself in a pitiful attempt to “exercise” and write superfluous blog entries.

Copy editing, if nothing else, has given me some purpose this week. I’ve been hunting for comma splices and pronoun errors by day, unshowered with last night’s sins sealed in my hair, stuck to the hairspray helmet I needed to plaster an over-sized Feria flower to the side of my head. Pardon the melodrama.

Francesca and I in front of the main gate to Feria. One of 20 trillion photos documenting the gitana outfits.

Truthfully, Feria has been a hell of a good time. Last night Elisa let me wear one of her flamenco outfits so I got to look the part of a non-foreigner for a little while, and god knows I love any excuse to sport a great costume (see: Halloween 08-09: Pulp Fiction Uma Thurman, Donatella Versace, babymama hillbilly, Lady Gaga [two versions]). Feria is another prime example of why it’s great to have a young señor(it)a in place of a grandmotherly host lady in Spain: If you don’t know someone with a tent at Feria, you’re not getting in anywhere, and the tents are where you want to be. I’ve been able to tag along with Elisa and her friends all week, so you could say I’m getting the full cultural experience. I’m also getting the full verbal beating from Spaniards who think it’s hil-freaking-arious that I’m so awkwardly tall and awkwardly incapable of dancing. Sorry, my hips don’t lie, nor do they move in a fashion that resembles the way you people dance. My hips are an honest specimen and they’ve made it excessively clear that I have no rhythm… now let’s stop commenting on it, mm?

Alright, this entry has been a little weird, a little schizophrenic, a little internal-monologue-under-the-influence. I swear I’m sitting at home sober right now, recovering from the baby-sized slice of leftover tortilla I ate for dinner and contemplating my own lameness.

Berlin’s calling

Thursday, April 22nd, 2010

One week of classes left.  I am certainly not upset about this at all– I loathe academia more than perhaps anything in the whole wide world (besides Deutsche Bahn and Sarah Palin, of course.)  This week has been quite the snooze fest in terms of blog-worthy tales, though my bathroom has FINALLY been restored to working condition after two weeks of dehumidification.  The weather has ranged from sun to rain to sleet to hail to clouds to wind every day, so my time has been spent inside cleaning (!!!) and doing the ridiculous amounts of homework I have before leaving for Berlin tomorrow morning.

I’m going on a group trip (with no one from my actual program) which should be interesting, to say the least.  A run down of my weekend: city tour by bus, opera, Jewish Museum, “The Story of Berlin” Museum, tour of the German parliament, and requisite sightseeing of Checkpoint Charlie, Brandenburger Tor, etc.  (Do you foresee problems with the amount of boring stuff on that list?  It’s gotta be better than learning about the evolution of the steam engine last weekend at the Deutsche Museum, right?)  There’s actually copious amounts of free time also scheduled in there, and I plan to take some of this to go see the WICHTENDAHL GALLERY.  That’s right, folks– I’m so famous, they’re putting up shrines.  In actuality, it’s an art gallery I happened to learn about when Googling my last name (Google.de produces much different results for it than Google.com, which is basically just a rundown of every position my father’s held over the last 15 years.)  It just so happens it’s located in Berlin, not far from the train station, so I plan on making the trek to at least take a picture of myself in front of the sign.  I hope it’s that easy.

Fifteen nights out, and the insomnia has officially set in.  I lay awake at night thinking about things I’ll do when I get home, what I’ve yet to do here, and just generally wracked with anxiety about how heavy my suitcases will be, if I’ll cry when D-Bag and I part ways, my Intercultural Communication final, how many cupcakes I should make for NPH’s birthday,  if I should dye my hair to finally get rid of the red, if my milk will go bad while I’m in Berlin, how I’ll manage living at home again after four months on a different continent, and whether I should eat my banana for breakfast with or without peanut butter.  It’s quite exhausting to be me.  About three nights before leaving, I’ll start waking up around 3 a.m. and not be able to fall back asleep– if you have access to a prescription pad or cases of NyQuil, let’s talk.

Off to take my weekly German test.  My two presentations this week went well enough, I suppose.  Oh, and I’m all registered for classes for my last fall semester of college (what.the.firetruck.) and don’t have any Wednesday or Friday classes.  PRETTY STOKED about that one.

Volcano

Monday, April 19th, 2010

Ahh, but you’re thinking to yourself—Brittney, WHAT about that volcano?  You know I have something to say, and it sure as shit involves me typing this on a train to Luneburg at almost midnight on Sunday night.  As you may remember, I FLEW to Munich, and that was absolutely glorious and pain free.  Apparently I live in a nice little No Relevant News zone (or to give myself some credit, had been putting together a scholastic presentation and studying for a test when most of this was happening) because I took this “volcano” thing less than half-seriously.  So imagine my hostility at Mother Nature when this “volcano” grounded my flight home.  First of all, sorry in advance to your virgin ears, but WHATTHEFUCK.  We can definitely put Mountains That Spew Magma and Ash in the column of Stuff I Forgot Exists.  Second of all, this could not have happened on a worse weekend because my attendance in class tomorrow to give my semester-end presentation is pretty mandatory.  Thirdly, I suppose if Iceland wants to blow up on its own time, I’m in no place to stand in its way, but I am only in Europe for four months.  Could this not have waited?  Now when people talk about this catastrophic world-changing event (I’m not being dramatic about this in the slightest) ‘twill be I who can grimly say, “I was there.  I was a victim.  And I saw the ash cloud hanging out over Bavaria.”  I totally did, by the by.  Sebas’ dad was all about updating us on it—the day started really sunny then it got cloudy but the giant cloud didn’t move and it never got cold or anything.  Where were YOU when the world started to end?!  Not on a Lufthansa flight back to Niedersachsen at a decent time, that’s for sure.

ANYWAY, so my only way to get home was the Blank Blankin’ There Aren’t Enough Words for How Much I Hate It Friggin’ Deutsche Bahn.  I am not alone in this well-deserved rage either; all the Germans hate it, too.  Perhaps I will go on a fifteen-minute rant about all the reasons Deutsche Bahn is Satan incarnate next time I’m drunk, a la NPH about the state of Indiana.  I booked my ticket online this morning, a two-leg journey from Regensburg to Luneburg that would put me in my room around 10 pm.  There was a small problem in that I booked it with a BahnCard which I don’t actually have in my physical possession, and that does NOT fly with the DB people.  Sebas, bless his fluent little soul, came to the service counter to ask the lady if they could perhaps print me a temporary card so I didn’t get publicly humiliated on the train and have to pay lots of extra money.  Somewhere within this process, the lady at the counter points out to him that I only have a ticket for the second leg of my journey because the first train is booked solid (“volcano.”)  OH OKAY.  Thank you, useless piece of shit Web site, for letting that transaction occur.  She found me a three-leg journey that would put me in my room at perhaps 1 am.  It was my only option, so this is the train on which I find myself currently.  It would have been a two-leg journey since my previous train goes right to Luneburg every day of the year except for four random ones in April, and WOULDN’T YOU KNOW, yep.  Today.  One of my stopovers was in Nurnberg for an hour so I was able to find a place to pee, aka McDonald’s, and take pictures of some sick architecture.  The Hannover train station was ridiculously busy, and not just with Germans (the Deutsche Bahn people are printing money out of all this ash.)  I am in an oddly good humor for having had about four hours of sleep over the past 36.  The plan is to take a taxi from the train station to my WG and then pass out.  This bag is far too heavy to carry across town, though I could just go halfway and then sleep on the steps to my class tomorrow morning.  I wouldn’t want to wake up covered in ash, though.

Spring break, take 2

Monday, April 19th, 2010

This weekend I went to Lisbon, Portugal with my program’s interest group. It was a fabulous place… here are photos.

Now that I’m back in Espanha(hahaha) as the Portuguese call this place, I just want to sleep for five days straight. Not gonna happen. But luckily I didn’t make travel plans this week, because the small matter of volcanic ash has butchered most people’s European itineraries.

We have off class in Sevilla this week for Feria de Abril. All I know about Feria I know from Elisa. She takes the week off of work and has been slaving at the sewing machine since the day I arrived making flamenco dresses for herself and for others, to earn some money on the side. Tonight she’s having people over at which point there will be certain consumption of rebujito, which is literally sherry and 7up. I previewed this last week with dinner and can’t say I was upset.

I don’t plan to give my body and brain too hard a beating tonight, because I already feel mildly corpse-like from nonstop travel and work since Semana Santa. Tomorrow I need to be lucid enough to copy edit and register for classes at Iowa (inconveniently at 10 p.m. Spain time). Registration is a very unwelcome reminder of the life I left on pause back in the states, and the fact that my tenure as a college student is slowly coming to an end. I can’t think about this right now. I should be thinking about sherry and 7up and what shoes to wear and what color eyeliner is the least street walker-y. You know, everything normal study abroad students think about.

Some more Bavaria

Monday, April 19th, 2010

Saturday night we went to a town over and drank with some friends before going to a “Spring Break” party at some random ass club in literally the middle of nowhere.  As in: field field field SHED WITH DISCO MUSIC field field.  It wasn’t exactly my idea of a great time—wall to wall bodies, nay, wall to wall German bodies dancing and singing along to techno and German rap and smoking and being quite odiferous.  Sebas’ German friends kept asking about America, “Is this like it is in America?” and practicing their English with me.  They all wanted to know if I’d been on a real “Spring Break” and do I watch Jersey Shore and is this the same music you listen to in America?  Their supermarket recently got guys to bag your groceries because “That’s how they do it in America.”  Um yeah, and we also waste thousands of bags through this process.

Oh, random side note: at bars and clubs here, it is commonplace to have “Go-Go Dancers” shaking it on a platform.  We were sitting at a restaurant/ bar on Friday night and then BAM, blonde woman wearing Lucite heels, leg warms, underwear, some sort of spangly belt thing, and a see-through top climbs atop this table, and suffice it to say some waxing place in town must be doing a lot of business.  To her credit, homegirl was in SHAPE, nary a wobbly bit moving out of place as she did a lot of, I don’t know, troucing and bending.  It was as if she were picked to be a Dallas Cowboy cheerleader but then got kicked off over a nude photo scandal, she was just so damn happy about it the whole time.  Probably coke.  Anyway, there were also some at the “Spring Break” party, but at least they didn’t discriminate and gave the ladies and gays in the audience something to ogle.  At one point, the male go-go dancer on the left stage turned from the crowd so his female counterpart could pull down his pants, share with the crowd his glorious behind (do you think they all go to the same esthetician?), then spray him down with some sort of water gun.  My German peers could not understand why I was a bit um, taken aback by this, because “Don’t you know that’s no big deal here?”  I’m not sure if a woman essentially putting herself on a gyno-patient relationship with me will ever not be a big deal.

On Saturday, two Italian students arrived that Sebas’ family will host for a week while they did a mini-exchange.  I knew more German than them; I’m pretty proud.  His family continuously commented on how much my German has improved since I visited at the end of January.  They were very impressed at how much I’ve picked up in just three months time; his mother spoke to me exclusively auf Deutsch, thus I think she likes me.  On Sunday, she fixed a HUGE lunch of pork steak, BRATWURST with my favorite mustard in the world, rolls, salad, and Magum ice cream bars.  The family thinks it’s hilarious how much I like that damn condiment, and they find it humorous to feed me til I can’t move.  Not that I put up a huge fight.  After lunch, Sebas showed them his yearbook that I brought back after Spring Break (only four years after the fact) and they thought it was amazing.  His 14-year-old sister was beyond impressed at the cheerleaders.  His mom gave me a coffee cup with a picture of the Danube and Regensburg’s cathedral to remember the town by.  AND THEN—get this—while I was packing my things upstairs, she made up a sack dinner for me to take on the train.  How awesome is this woman!?  As if I hadn’t eaten enough brats at lunch to keep me satiated until I leave the country, she made me a sandwich with an apple, banana, bottle of water, bottle of apple juice, and three little Nutella candy things.  We then all shook hands/ awkwardly cheek-kissed/ hugged good-bye and they told me I’m always welcome, whenever I’m in Europe.  I very much like being semi-adopted by a German family.

The first of a few on Munich

Sunday, April 18th, 2010

After my arrival on Thursday afternoon, we went to the store to stock up on beer and bratwurst.  Thousands of miles apparently have no effect on my grocery list.  Sebas grilled up Nurnburger brats which we had on hard rolls with my FAVORITE MUSTARD in the world.  I am returning to the states with three bottles and a tube of this mustard; it’s occupying prime real estate in my luggage.  With our case of beer I got a free Paulaner Hefeweiss Bier glass that plays the Paulaner jingle when clinked in a cheers or “Prost!” with another.  He lives in barracks (or perhaps just a dorm of servicemen?) so soon I found myself drinking with many insanely jacked members of the German Army.  They were all very friendly and thought I was the shit, a common feeling people experience when in my presence.  The weather was ridiculously nice all weekend, so I was a bit sad that we went inside on Friday to visit the Deutsches Museum.  I suppose it was cool, but it wasn’t about Germany so much as a museum of technologies throughout history?  Trains, planes, the printing press, mining, metals–  meh, not exactly my cup o’ tea.  But then we got ice cream, the first of four times I had ice cream in three days, so be jealous.

We went to Sebas’ hometown about an hour outside the city that night, after getting stuck in a RIDICULOUS traffic jam on the Autobahn.  Apparently this happens every single day, so while in most parts it’s true there is no speed limit, good luck on finding an open enough stretch of road where you can actually take advantage of it.  Saturday was the nicest day of the year yet weather-wise so we visited the Walhalla.  I’m going to have to direct you to Google on this one—some famous guy built this massive Grecian-looking temple to honor the gods on a hill overlooking the Danube River.  One word: spectacular.  I didn’t realize how much hillier/mountainous Southern Germany is than the part I’m used to.  HOLY AMAZING SCENERY, Batman.  Bavaria is hands down the most beautiful place I’ve ever seen in the world—the views were indescribably fantastic.  I took lots of pictures, but they don’t nearly do it justice.  We continued our scenic tour of the Bavarian countryside in Sebas’ BMW Z4 convertible (I have heard so much about this f@#$ing car.  I’ve seen the engine, know the horsepower… Is there a girl in the world who could care less? Probably not.  But it was a nice ride and oh baby does she go fast.  We did some math on kilometers to miles and at times we were apparently going 156 MPH.)  I only thought my life was in peril at oh, every turn, but at least I was sippin’ on a McDonald’s milkshake—strawberry for yours truly, chocolate for my chauffeur.  We drove around the farm country for a couple of hours.  Tiny villages of just a few houses and a church or two (they’re quite Catholic  down south) would be every mile or two, with larger farms between.  They happened to be spreading manure that day so the smells didn’t really match the picturesque sights, but it sure did remind me of Iowa.

The motherload

Thursday, April 15th, 2010

I had a religious experience today.  My test went well, I signed up for our group trip to Berlin with only hours til the cut-off deadline, and still made it to the train station with about half an hour to spare.  I’d had a banana and orange with my coffee in the wee hours of the morning, but a rumbly in my tumbly started to grow around 10 am.  With time to kill and fresh Sparkasse Euros burning a hole in my pocket, I went to the bakery across the street from the Bahnhof for some caffeine and (hopefully) something almondy.  Oh baby, was I not disappointed.  First of all, this might be my new go-to hang out for all sweets and treats because it’s ridiculously cheaper than the bakeries occupying prime real estate in the center of town.  They also have quite the range of goods—from regular croissants to every frosted cake you probably can’t even think of, and lots of savory breakfast sandwiches as well.  I took more time making my selection than I do on most decisions of far greater importance, but in the end ‘twas perhaps the most life-altering choice I’ve made in almost 21 years.  It is called Marzipanzopf and it has changed my life.  I am not exaggerating when I say this braided delight was the size (length and almost width) of my forearm.  In fact, and write this day down in history, it was TOO big and I found myself only wanting at most half.  It was regular sweet bread dough, the impossibly intricate colonies of yeast proving its handmade and not machine-produced origins.  Sticky, almost clear marzipan slid between the strands of twisted dough (zopf means braid auf Deutsch) and it was all topped with impossibly sweet powdered sugar glazed and toasted almond slivers.  I needed some alone time with this thing. And yes, I realize I just described a pastry as if this was a smutty novel set after hours in a bakery backroom.  If I had been washing it down with a Diet Pepsi and not a Coke Zero, I’d make the bold statement that this was the single best meal of my entire life.  (But then again, I’m sure I’ll proclaim that after everything I put in my mouth in Bavaria.  My life is so hard.)  It took a while to work my way through it; my body needed time to produce the proper amounts of insulin lest my vision start blurring, I pass out, and miss my stop in Hamburg.

While I was sitting on the train, April sun streaming down on my face as I enjoyed the scenery of rural Germany, the ticket man came around (don’t worry, this part of the story ends LEAGUES better than my train voyage to Munich the first time.)  He asked for my ticket, which is our student pass that lets us ride (most) trains for free.  You also have to show picture i.d. to prove you’re not just using your friend’s pass (this will be a big problem for D-bag who is currently using my expired student pass to ride the bus around town—his perished in the wash.)  He saw my name on the student pass and said, “Ahh Brittney, aber nicht Spears!”  He was by far the friendliest German I’ve ever met on the rails, and he made a pop culture joke about my name and I understood it and we guffawed together.  What a touching intercultural moment.  I showed him my passport to verify that I was indeed Brittney not Spears, and he started to leave then did a kind of double take, “Sie ist Amerikanerin!”  Well yes Sir, I am aware.  He must just not get a lot of foreign kids on his train, or is either really in love with or secretly loathes Americans.  Either way, he left me alone after that, and I made it to the airport in plenty of time for my flight (even though I rode the subway here without a ticket and about had a heart attack just KNOWING I’d get caught.  In my defense, I did try, but the damn machine just printed me out a schedule of subways I could take and then BAM it was there and I didn’t want to wait 10 minutes for the next one.  D-bag and I got caught in Denmark being “Schwarz fahren” [without a ticket] but that was LEGIT we couldn’t read Danish and spent twenty minutes punching at the machine before deciding to test fate.  Thankfully Danish ticket men are a hundred times nicer than their Deutsch neighbors, and the man simply told us to get off at the next stop, but normally he was supposed to get us a fine of over $300.)

SO NOW, I’m hanging in the airport, my body craving vegetables or anything besides the pounds of butter and sugar I’ve fueled it with thus far.  In three short weeks, I’ll be here again (how I’m going to wrangle my two giant suitcases on bus, train, and subway then inevitably pay up the ass for one of them is still beyond me.)  Oh, a big THANK YOU to D-bag for lending me a duffle bag to use as my carry-on.  My backpack simply couldn’t hold my clothes, toiletries, Sebas’ yearbook, AND my laptop and hair straightener.  Last time I came I made the choice between the latter two, really like picking a favorite child I would imagine, but this time I decided I didn’t need to suffer.  I’m gonna go like walk around or pay 18 Euro for a water or something.  The inevitable sugar crash is imminent—perhaps I’ll get a quick nap in on the plane?

Update: I have made it.  To the beer halls!

Sugar! Caffeine! Productivity!

Wednesday, April 14th, 2010

I will try my best to refrain from using lots of bold and CAPS, but my blood sugar is at Seek Medical Attention Immediately levels of high, so bear with me.  Some friends and I just returned from our last CCC Meeting of the semester (coffee, cookies, conversation) and I overloaded on German cake, Girl Scout cookies D-Bag’s mom sent, and sweet sweet caffeine (at 7 pm.  So dumb.)  Today we talked about when people are going home, who’s ready to go, who’s freaking out, and what protocol is exactly for saying good-bye to people who you’re only ambiguously acquainted with.  The general consensus is that most people don’t want to leave, and even I have to admit, I DON’T WANNA GO.  We got an e-mail from the program director yesterday, “Things to do before you leave” and it was my first wait, whaaat? moment.  Here I’ve been counting down the days until spicy food and NPH and stores being open on Sundays, but it’s finally sinking in that I’m not just visiting America for a week again.  I’m going and I’m staying and this dream world I’ve been living in will be over.  Harumph.

In happier news, after my first Intermediate German II test tomorrow, I’m boarding a place to Munich!!!!!!!!!  I think we all know how in love with Bavaria I am, and there aren’t really words for how much I’m looking forward to a weekend of pretzels, Weisswurst, sweet mustard, beer, the Autobahn, and Sebas’ mama’s home-cookin’.  I busted my ass today to get my semester book project done– Monday’s the big day– so I can relax (HA) about it.  My teacher, bless her, is letting me take my test an hour early so I have plenty of time to get to the airport.  Turns out I LOVE airports now, my general thought process is if I’m in one, I must be going somewhere.  I’ll have almost four days of finally tolerable weather, and Sebas said we get to do WHATEVER I WANT because it’s MY weekend.  I like this kid more and more.

A new trend in my life I’m not a fan of: BAD SLEEP.  It takes me a while to fall asleep, then when I wake up I have NO idea where I am, what time it is, what day it is.  I’ve  had insanely vivid dreams since coming here, but lately they’ve gotten kinda scary (I woke up like dry sobbing the other night.  Nice.)  I always wake up at least an hour before my alarm, which I’ve at least been able to work to my advantage since there’s no going back to sleep.  This morning I went into Am Sande before class and walked around the Wednesday morning market.  Holy amazeballs.  This thing puts any farmer’s market at home to shame.  So many fresh flowers and vegetables and fruit and fish and meet and BAKERY CARTS.  I got a giant bag of dried apricots (or nature’s candy as Iowa Girl Eats says.  Couldn’t agree me) for only two Euro, seriously perhaps the best purchase I’ve made here.  I then headed over to one of the bakery carts for breakfast, and giant surprise, ended up with some almond-y.

Um, yeah.  It’s essentially a marzipan cookie, and the ends are dipped in dark chocolate.  Germany will officially be the death of me.  In my last three weeks, I have made a solemn vow to try every almond-flavored thing I can get my hands on– no easy task since the bakery cases are filled to the brim.  On my radar is a Spanish almond cake, though it appears to only be sold in five Euro slabs as big as my torso and well, if I’d like to keep said torso approximately that size, I should not be eating sheets of cake.  (Let’s be honest, people– that cake’s gonna mysteriously make it’s way to my WG by next week.)

Tomorrow starts my two-day blackout of social media (Facebook, Twitter– thankfully not e-mails) for a TNGG experiment. Expect a full Munich recap when I return– IF I return because yeah, it’s that great.  Now if you’ll excuse me, I have to go shower at my neighbor’s because the giant moisture-sucking machine of death is STILL in my bathroom.  Yes, it’s been a week.  No, I haven’t run this week because well, the world doesn’t need to be subjected to that if I don’t have a regular place to bathe after.  If I don’t go for a run when I get back I. will. diiiiiiiiie (I’ve become one of those people.  WHO KNEW?!)

A Moroccan recap, before I forget…

Wednesday, April 14th, 2010

Usually I’m hyper-diligent about blogging within a day or so of getting back from a trip, but I’m losing the proverbial battle against time pretty badly this week. Let’s see if I can remember all the way back to last Friday in some detail…

The Medina in Marrakech.

I expressed a tinge of concern in my last post regarding my then-pending trip to Morocco. Many students on my program travel to Morocco and come back with weird illnesses, food poisoning, missing wallets, whatever. And all of these students go to Morocco with a pre-planned tour by a student travel agency. Adam, who has more confidence as a navigator and traveler than I do, convinced me it was a good idea to do this trip sans the student travel agency to a) avoid the hand-holdy obnoxiousness of a group tour and b) maybe save some money. I’m an extremely paranoid traveler, and I was starting to wonder if I had been talked into a horrible idea, but I’ll go ahead now and say I was wrong, Adam was right. Doing this trip without the travel agency was the best way we could have gone.

Our motley crew — Adam, Caroline and myself — assembled early Friday morning for the flight into Marrakech. We were depending pretty heavily on my mammoth encyclopedia-sized Let’s Go book covering Spain, Portugal and Morocco. I have a fickle relationship with this book. Some of the information is downright wrong, or stupid. But it served us well in instructing how to get from the airport to the city center by bus, from which point we wandered with our backpacks for maybe an hour trying to find our hostel. With the help of a local dude pushed on us at the French Café we got to our hostel, which, aside from smelling a little funky, was great. For 13 euro a night, nobody was upset.

Vendor in Djema'a Al-Fna, Marrakech (I was quite happy with how my photos came out, not to pat myself on the back or anything).

Based on Let’s Go‘s description of Marrakech, we expected the city to be like the warm up of the trip, preceding a much greater adventure in Fes. To quote: “Marrakesh’s medina is less overwhelming than that of Fez, but almost as big and brash.” And: “The colorful, chaotic medina of Fez beats at its own crazy pace. Donkeys rush by with refrigerators on their backs, old men weave carpets and dance around dye pits with huge stacks of leather, children lead tourists out of alleyways, and everyone is selling something.”

Lesson learned about guidebooks. They aren’t always right. I was expecting a donkey with a refrigerator on its back, and instead I got a bunch of stray cats.

Fes’s medina — or marketplace — was bigger than Marrakech’s, with literally thousands of winding unmarked streets. But seeing the Medina in Marrakech at night was one of the most fascinating parts of our trip. The best word to describe it would be “alive.” With a pulse of its own. Before visiting the medina at night, Friday afternoon we also spent a healthy chunk of time getting lost on our way to the train station to buy tickets to Fes for the next day. But the highlight of getting lost was poking around the city outside of the Djema’a Al-Fna, near the medina and our hostel, where we spent most of our time. We also had a classy meal at McDonald’s before deciding to play it safe again that night at a pizza place for dinner. Combined we probably packed a year’s worth of anti-diarrheal meds, but nobody was feeling too adventurous with Moroccan food so early in the trip. And my hat’s off to Let’s Go for offering some solid restaurant recommendations.

Saturday morning we were up by 4 a.m. to catch an eight-hour train to Fes. This part of the trip was the greatest source of anxiety for me when we had been planning. Being a budget-conscience traveler and booking through Ryanair means sacrifices. Our flights to Morocco were astoundingly cheap, but we could only fly into Marrakech and home from Fes. Marrakech and Fes are not close. To my surprise, the train ride — and honestly, the whole trip — couldn’t have gone smoother. We got into Fes by 1 p.m. with plenty of time to meander the medina and be harassed by Moroccan kids trying to get us to stay at their family’s hostels.

In Fes, the three of us capitalized on the opportunity to use our Spanish skills. Not because anybody spoke Spanish; precisely the opposite. We kept running into the same damn kid trying to bring us to his family’s hostel, telling us his life depended on it while dressed excessively well (a la guido/Jersey Shore) to be making such a claim. The best way to respond to the hustling was “No hablo ingles.”

View of Fes from the terrace over the leather tannery.

In Fes we serendipitously fell upon a (free) opportunity to check out a leather tannery and meet a guy who wanted to give us a presentation about blanket weaving. Our Moroccan game plan was pretty much not to have a game plan, and whether it was by chance or by our own travel technique, we were able to get a good feel for both cities during our short stint in the country. We also did some number crunching and realized that we are economic superstars and easily spent less money than we would have with the student travel agency, which accounted for all our expenses, even our absurdly classy and slightly pricy hostel in Fes, two nice dinners and an embarrassing amount of souvenirs. Call us to plan your next trip, only a 40 percent commission fee.

I could go on, but WordPress is telling me I’m at 925 words, and my common sense is telling me no one cares after 200. On Friday I’m going to Lisbon, Portugal with my interest group. I hear it’s damn beautiful, and I’m also excited for what should be a bank-account friendly trip (it’s “free,” aka I already paid for it, within my program).

I can’t think of any city in the world where I’d rather be.

Monday, April 12th, 2010

On that note, I graduate in eight months. Who wants to hire me in Sevilla?

Why don’t “mood” and “good” rhyme?

Monday, April 12th, 2010

“Get me the f@?$ out of this country.” –one of my fellow American students, though he’s been here for almost nine months.  This is essentially the sentiment of everyone around me; we’re going absolute bat-shit stir crazy.  Perhaps it’s because the German students have returned and the campus is once again overrun with crowds, lines, and German people who will sit at your table even though there are 47 empty ones elsewhere in the cafeteria.  The language is getting ridiculously harder, the natives are getting weirder, the food is tasting blander, the weather is getting colder, and we’re ready to go.  I will be making the most of my last few weeks here, however– once I get this BLANK-BLANKIN’ project done, I can enjoy Munich, Berlin, and shopping in Hamburg.  I’ve also thrown calorie counts to the wind and have been indulging in German pastries for really the first time since coming (it’s all for you, Bryce.)  I can get a bowl of muesli at home any day, but I can’t walk down the street to a tiny bakery and pay for a piping hot, homemade European croissant/pretzel/you name it I hope to eat it before leaving.

Apparently I freckle when in the sun.  Having not been exposed to direct sunlight for going on21 years, I was never aware this could occur.  Or maybe it’s just a new thing– either way, my nose is nicely freckle-spotted.

My freak hand allergy has returned exactly five weeks after returning to Germany from America.  This number is significant because it is almost the EXACT amount of time it took for it to mysteriously come about the first time.  Coincidence?  I THINK NOT!  I shall arm myself with steroid cream and children’s allergy sleep medication (it was free from the Doc, thank you) and go into Official Battle until I figure out what the heck’s going on.

Oh, on the kinda big news front: for those of you who don’t stalk on me on Facebook/Twitter/ in real life, I’ve found gainful employment this summer as an event planning intern in Des Moines, thus won’t be living in Iowa City.  I’ll in fact be putting down roots again with my family (parents AND little brother) in Adel.  If you’re of the God-fearing kind, please pray for me.  My ever-increasing anxiety problems have me much more worked up about living at home again (which I haven’t really done since leaving for college almost three years ago) than I am about actually doing well in my internship.  In reality, I’m over the moon to be living so close to pretty much all of my family and getting to experience Des Moines as an adult, because I think it’s a much neater place to hang out than it’s given credit.  As always, I’ll be missing NPH and that house full of slovenly boys to whom I’ve given my heart, but being two hours down the Interstate is much better than thousands of miles across an ocean.

In which I get a bit hostile at the natives

Saturday, April 10th, 2010

Complete and total academic apathy has set in for all members of my study abroad program.  I’ve given up on learning any more of the German language and will consider it a Life Win if I am present for the remainder of my classes.  I’ll perhaps save the rant on why track classes are a complete waste for another time (if I wanna learn German, spending an hour having casual conversation with my roommates will teach me more than four weeks of classroom busy work.  The other week we were introduced to the Genetiv verb tense by my teacher saying, “We don’t actually use this anymore, but you still have to learn it.”  OH OKAY.)  The countdown to home is now in weeks instead of months, and I waffle daily on how I feel about this.  It seems the longer I’m here, the more hostile I get with the natives, and if I unapologetically get the German Stare one more time while doing something completely harmless to them, I PROMISE YOU I WILL GET VIOLENT.

Yesterday after our requisite weekly testing, we played some volleyball outside then came in for some good old-fashioned drinking games.  I volunteered my WG and perfectly sized kitchen table for some beer pong even though there’s really nothing I hate more in this world than that wretched game and thus didn’t actually participate.  My flatmate situation has changed drastically since the beginning of the year– I’m now living with two German girls, a German guy, and a Brazilian girl (woman?  They’re all my age or older, I suppose the proper term is “female.”)  This batch is about a million times more uppity than the last ones (two are the same) and are cleaning ALL THE TIME and tell me how dirty the bathroom is and made a chore chart with all of our names on it.  You read that correctly.  It’s like I’m in second grade and if I get 100 gold stars I get a trip to Disneyland.  This week I’m on trash duty, and absolutely want to burn this place to the ground, if I can just be honest about my feelings.  This chore chart combines so many of my least favorite things into one seemingly harmless but actually Satan-sent piece of cardboard: 1. CLEANING; 2. Community, sharing, getting along with others; 3. CLEANING.  I realize my deeply-ingrained hatred for all things orderly is the point of the chart in the first place, but what kind of Type A anal-retentive European sat down with a glue stick, Sharpies (they spelled my name wrong, perhaps a large source of this angst) and decided that five adults couldn’t just take care of their own shit?  I’m fairly certain a majority of the German population would drop dead if they saw the living conditions at 713.  Cleanliness is definitely a huge cultural difference, even when comparing it to normal households and not the barely live-able house of five college guys.

ANYWAY, so after beer pong, we were looking forward to some schnitzel and Pommes at the Mensa for dinner, but turns out they don’t serve it on Fridays.  We went into Am Sande to get Döner and gelato, then went to an outdoor bonfire/birthday party for some of the Erasmus (non-German European study abroad program) students.  While oddly cold out, it was a pretty great time, and we witnessed yet didn’t actually try Spanish s’mores.  Ok, not really s’mores at all, but it involves open flame and a stick, so the Americans thought Aha! marshmallows.  It was actually some sort of bread dough brought out in saucepans, and then they’d take some and smear it on the end of the stick (which had been kind of pre-cleaned and cut?  But not enough to where a German would eat it HA.)  It took a while, but the bread would eventually puff up and cook and it was kinda like a breadstick.  I did attempt this, but apparently used too much dough and caused a giant doughy mess on my hands and the stick and the fire– just step away from the carbs, Brittney.

Today we finally satisfied our burrito cravings in  Hamburg, and I was able to clear out my pollen-clogged sinuses thanks to the Diablo Habanero salsa.  It was good, but not nearly as spicy as something labeled similarly in America would be (Germans DON’T do spicy.)  Afterward we went to Hamburger Dom, this carnival type thing that comes around like four times a year.  It’s basically the Iowa State Fair with only the light-up, spinny rides and food stands, only the food stands here are way better because it’s German food and every other one sells some sort of beer, pastry, or wurst.  I got my hands on perhaps the highlight of my life here so far– Mazipankuchen, essentially a  marzipan-filled frosted donut.  Holy diabetes, Batman– it was so hot and melty and oily and sugary and amazingly almond-ly delicious.  Imagine the last time you enjoyed being naked with another person, take that times 100, and it MIGHT be what this tasted like.  I just tried to upload a picture of it, but apparently WordPress only wants to work for Lauren, thus I will just tell you to click here for the Facebook album it’s in.

Writer’s block, this is what came out

Friday, April 9th, 2010

Apparently I’m allergic to pollen.  This week has been a nice seesaw between extreme congestion and Snot Fest 2010.

The Hausmeister decided to finally show up and do something about the leaky bathroom situation.  There is some sort of industrial-sized dryer in there now trying to undo some of the water damage, and under NO CIRCUMSTANCES are we to go in there or open the door or even peek through the keyhole or God forbid shower.  All five of us are vying for time and space in our other bathroom, but for some reason we’re not allowed to use the shower.  This created quite the mini-conundrum when I got back from my run (in the heat of the day.  In all black) yesterday.  Now I can stand my own stink, but I had plans to go into public later.  Thankfully my beautiful Slovakian neighbor recently returned from his glamorous Easter holiday of snowboarding and cross-country skiing in the mountains of his home country, and he graciously let me use his WG’s shower.  Hopefully the monstrous bathroom machine is not emitting anything reminiscent of Chernobyl because you’d better believe I broke the rules and sneaked in to grab my comb and towel.

Tomorrow is our final in Intermediate German I.  Intermediate German is HARD.  I am not exactly looking forward to Intermediate II, but it’s three credit hours in only three weeks so I’m gonna tough it out (and curse the language heavens along the way.)  The amount of homework I have to do this weekend is ridiculous.  Granted, I’m finishing a few projects ahead of time since they’re due right when I return from Munich next weekend (!!!) but essentially I’m looking at lots of time chained to my desk this weekend.  With a break for Qrito Burrito Take Two, of course, because it turns out we never got there on Monday.  The buses are in a nasty habit of coming early, and unfortunately Matt missed the bus which then caused us to miss the train to Hamburg.  Not wanting to wait around for an hour for the next one, we walked back into town and got some “snack boxes” at a Chinese place.  Thankfully we didn’t go for actual entrees because Holy bland non-descript food, Batman.  Less than satisfied, and bored and looking for adventure on Easter Monday, we set off in search of a Brazilian bar he’d heard of one time in passing that doesn’t serve beer, only really good cocktails with lots of fruit.  We got some very ambiguous directions from his roommate and actually found it, but it didn’t open until 7 and it was only 5:30, dammit.  Not being a quitter, we got some road beers (thing I’ll miss most: no open container laws) and strolled around town.

If you haven’t noticed a theme in my posts yet or had the privilege of spending more than an hour with me, let me clue you in that my bladder is perhaps the size of a pea.  We don’t know why this is, ’tis my cross to bear.  Of course I found myself on Monday in a place I’ve been far too many times before– in desperate search of a bathroom, no relief in sight.  To his credit, Matt offered to stand vigil beside a bush or something, but in a last ditch effort to scrape together some sort of dignity, I decided I could make it across town to the McDonald’s.  While I’m sure it’s not kosher to walk into Mickey D’s here just for use of their toilets, this is the one time I will proudly pull out and wave around my American card, nary a guilty glance toward the Dollar (erm, Euro) Menu as I walk out basking in sweet relief (literally.)

ANYWAY– we finally made it to the bar, an ancient, dusty, dimly-lit place that kinda looked straight outta Knockturn Alley.  There was a completely bald, bespectacled bartender; a regular of about 50 seated opposite him; an eight-year-old girl to his left; and our waitress– a barely five foot, 107-year-old chain smoking Portuguese woman who maybe weighed 80 pounds.  This woman is fabulous.  She came off and started rambling German to us, none of which we understood, probably because she could barely see over our table.  We ordered our cocktails– a “Zombie Classic” for me and a “Zombie Brasil” for Matt, and waited an inordinate amount of time.  The wait was worth it, however, because these babies came packed with fresh fruit and BOY HOWDY were they strong.  Probably the best 7 Euro I’ve spent here.  Our favorite waitress of all time also brought over a bowl of crackers that actually tasted like potato chips but were shaped like dragons.  Those damn Brazilians.  We may have ordered an Absinthe cocktail or two after that– not fodder for a public blog if we did.

The 21 only ordnance in Iowa City officially goes into effect on my 21st birthday.  Whether or not a deal with the Devil was made on that one, you’ll probably never know.

QUESTION: What’s less even important than the resurrection of Christ in Spain?

Wednesday, April 7th, 2010

ANSWER: Turning 21.

That didn’t stop it from happening though. And it didn’t stop me from celebrating. Eighteen is the golden age in Spain, and it almost seemed arbitrary to celebrate my Stateside legality in a country that will serve anyone who can reach the bar. But I went out anyways to compensate for my inability to hit the tiny 21-and-up bar circuit in Iowa City (Deadwood, anyone?). I would say my birthday was a success even if for no other reason than that I avoided face planting in the toilet bowl upon my return home in the wee A.M. hours. That is sooooo 2009.

I’d prefer not to rehash last night’s events in gruesome detail on this very public platform, but te lo juro por Snoopy that nobody was arrested, injured or otherwise placed in an (unsolicited) compromising position. That’s all I could have hoped for. I’ll celebrate again the day after I fly home in May by going to the DMV for my horizontal license as soon as humanly possible. Can’t wait to update my height and weight (vom), but I am ready to ditch the picture of 16-year-old Lauren with the flippy haircut. You should remember well if you had the misfortune of knowing me in 2005.

Today I feel like death reheated in the microwave, but left on the turntable for too long and therefor stuck to the plate. I just realized that today is Wednesday, which means — for those of you who haven’t been keeping up — that tomorrow is Thursday, and then comes Friday, aka the day I leave for Africa WTF??!!???? I’m going to Morocco with Caroline and Adam — independent of a pre-planned excursion — and currently panicking about food poisoning and train schedules and the whole not-speaking-French-or-Arabic thing. It’s just us, a massive guidebook and some pre-printed Ryanair boarding passes. Us against the world. Or against Morocco. Or me against feeling like death stuck to a plate.

Ostern Wochenende

Monday, April 5th, 2010

Props to Germany for making Easter a four day holiday.  Today is Ostern Montag so I slept in til noon, went on a long run, and have been quite productive in cleaning the apartment before my flatmates return (dun dunn duhhhhh.  Not looking forward to that.  Pretty certain I was meant to live alone.)  Any second now I’ll be starting my homework… after I return from an extended trip to Hamburg just for a burrito, of course.  There’s a place called Qrito Burrito that’s essentially Germany’s Pancheros (or Qdoba, or Chipotle.)  It’s interesting  to get all the Americans together and discuss our preferences in these different establishments.  Being from Iowa City, I’ve gotta rep Panch– shout out to Reid if you’ve stumbled upon this in your Internet patrol of all things tortilla related, how creepy am I?!– though my father swears by only Qdoba, and one student is counting down his days til America just so he can hop off the plane and land face first into some Taco Bell.

I am quite looking forward to the country resuming actual working hours tomorrow though because our WG has a bit of a situation and I have zero idea how to deal with it.  The bathroom is, for lack of a better term, flooding.  It started on Thursday with a weird dripping sound that I thought was maybe the heater, so obviously ignored it until the next day when it was quite obvious there was liquid (let’s hope just water) leaking from the ceiling.  My solution was to put down a towel and go about my day.  Flash forward to today where we have three soaked towels and ever-increasing water spots on the ceiling.  D-Bag and I have hypothesized that whoever lives above me most likely committed suicide in the tub and it hath spilled over, or– since bathtubs are a luxury not afforded to us lowly students– someone was doing dishes, had an aneurysm, and died with the water running.  Clearly our imaginations are feeling quite morbid.  SO, if none of my flat mates return today to make the phone call to the Hausmeister, I will be looking up the German word for “flood” and making a trek to the housing office when it opens tomorrow.

I’m not a huge fan of Bucket Lists, but if I had one, I could check off “attend Easter service in a 500-year-old church where Bach played.”  The flow of the service was freakishly similar to any other Lutheran one back home, though there was much less fanfare for the holiday part of it.  For being a country where everyone dresses up WAY more on a daily basis than back home, they sure left their Sunday best in the closet for Easter.  I felt like the town whore (keep your comments to yourself, please) in my just-above-knee-length aubergine American Apparel wrap dress– ESPECIALLY when I went up for communion and ended up standing smack in the middle of the aisle in front of the entire congregation (they do it standing in a circle, I can explain in greater detail to interested family members later) for a good five minutes.  I don’t think I can properly convey the anxiety and trauma induced by this situation.  Apparently I was the only one sufficiently embarrassed by my exposed knees however, as no one said anything, and one elderly German woman even smiled and nodded at me like, “Of COURSE you’re foreign and awkward, but we as a collective people will let it slide as it is an international holiday.”  Danke very, very much kind old lady.

You’re probably wondering how my Easter dinner turned out, as if it were to go off as anything but AWESOME.  My friend Matt (from Las Vegas, turns out we’re kinda soulmates) came over and made hamburgers with me.  The Mensa every day turns out cuts of meat with vegetables and potatoes of some sort with gravy, so there was a game-time decision to make it super casual and just grill (read: fry) hamburgers instead of recreating an actual American Easter dinner.  I’m quite certain I’ll never ever get the smell of greasy ground beef outta my WG, but in retrospect it’s all worth it.  The Bavarian pretzel appetizers and chocolate lava cake with vanilla sauce desserts were leagues better than the actual main course, but dammit if we didn’t have fun in the process.  Matt even brought over a six-pack of Becks because “You sounded sad” (the whole roof caving-in thing) so I’m quite boldly going to say we had the best Easter meal of my whole 20 years.  That evening my father did Skype me in on the entire two hour Easter dinner happening at our house, however, so it was really the best of both worlds.

Not to get you all excited with a teaser, but get mentally prepped for the next post in which Matt and I eat Chinese food then break-in the only Portuguese bar in Luneburg that refuses to serve beer, only fresh fruit-heavy cocktails.  The closer it comes to leaving, the more attached I get.

Semana Santa in Sevilla

Sunday, April 4th, 2010

The cathedral in Sevilla. The third largest in the world.

Here’s a short clip of El Cachorro exiting the cathedral on Jueves Santo, or Holy Thursday. It’s not a great video, as I was abusing the zoom function from behind a tree, but you can see the whole float pretty well. I always used to associate the smell of incense with going to mass, but I think for the rest of my life that smell will remind me of Sevilla in the springtime.

(Click here to watch. WordPress is an uncooperative wench and won’t let me embed the video.)

The Resurrection of Christ: no big deal.

Saturday, April 3rd, 2010

Sieben Family Vaycay in Spain ended a few hours of ago. We crammed a lot of this country into one short week: Madrid, Toledo, Granada, Torremolinos, Ronda, Jeréz de la Frontera, Sevilla. I’m exhausted just typing out the list.

Technically, the tour we’ve been traveling with is still going. My family left Sevilla this morning for Córdoba and they’re probably en route to Madrid right now. I’ve been to Córdoba, so I decided to stay in Sevilla and avoid the extra train ride home from Madrid.

The trip was great — cooperative weather, beautiful sites and educational to boot — and it merits a much better recap than the one I’m giving it here. But, my brain is fried. Fried like the fried eggs I’ve been indulging in at the hotel continental breakfasts each morning. Fried like the churros that skyrocket in price during Semana Santa.

Esperanza Macarena, one of the most famous processions in Semana Santa (photo credit: http://comunidad.muchoviaje.com/CS/photos/la_semana_santa_de_sevilla/picture40605.aspx).

This blog title is relevant, I promise, because tomorrow is Easter. My mom brought over an obscene amount of Easter candy. I appreciate it, for real, but is she trying to kill me? I introduced Elisa to caramel-filled Cadbury eggs and I think this should secure my place as her favorite American ever. Or at least it better. Sevillanos don’t do chocolate-covered marshmallow eggs. They don’t sit in empty hotel rooms after their families leave, like I do, demolishing a half carton of aforementioned eggs and then feeling helplessly guilty about it afterward. No, instead the Sevillanos celebrate Holy Week — Semana Santa — a spectacle that one must see to understand. I want to call it a massive Jesus and Mary parade, which would be oversimplifying the matter, but that truly sums it up. A week-long procession of crucified Jesus, weeping Virgin, Catholic brotherhoods with pointed hats, marching bands and incense.

I took some video and photos of one of the processions exiting the Cathedral last night, and I’ll post it soon. Semana Santa was fascinating, and despite my sarcasm, I don’t intend to insult the tradition. The only confusing part of Semana Santa to me is its total disregard for Easter. The climax of the week is Thursday night going into Good Friday morning… when Jesus died… and here, everyone could care less about the resurrection. That was the miraculous part, right?? Christ rising was sort of a big deal, the way I was taught throughout 17 years of Catholic school on Sunday nights. But meh, what do I know. I’m not a practicing Catholic. Let the weeping Mary weep.

April Fool’s (means nothing here…)

Thursday, April 1st, 2010

It’s the first day of April, next month is May.  May is the month I leave Germany.  It’s also my 20 and 5/6th birthday today!  Two months til the big 2-1, the day we can all breathe a bit easier that finally I’m living on the right side of the law.  In the twenty minutes I’ve been at my computer post-Mensa, the weather has gone from kinda sunny and quite windy, to SUPER DARK and raining, to HAILING and covering the ground with white, back to sunny and with all precipitation melted away.  I just purchased my plane ticket to Munich in two weeks– it was cheaper to take an hour-long flight than a six hour train ride.  I’m starting to really love flying, something I never thought I’d say.

Yesterday I cut Greg’s hair.  You may be asking yourself why this happened.  I’m not sure, either.  He said earlier this week that he needed a haircut, and instead of coughing up the eight Euro for a professional one, he quite foolishly thought I sounded pretty convincing when I said, “I can do it.”  Technically, I have cut one person’s hair before, but the circumstances surrounding that incredibly sketchy situation do not warrant re-telling, and the result was bloody awful.  [Side note: it's raining again.  Sideways.]  D-Bag lent us some hair clippers, but Greg figured I should use scissors for the job.  We’re talking like one step up from Fiskers craft scissors, incredibly dull, and in no way fit to cut hair.  The blessed event went down in his room, floor covered in a sheet, towel around his bare shoulders (does it sound to you like I’m describing the opening scene from a low-budget pornographic movie? Because it does to me.)  He has dark hair, and in retrospect I should not have been cutting it directly opposite the only light source in the room, the window he was facing.  I did about five or ten minutes of snipping and was pretty proud of myself when we decided he should go check it out in the mirror.  As he moved into the bathroom and his head became much more visible in the natural light, we both realized it was, erm, patchy.  Like, some scalp was visible on the right side.  And you could basically see where I made each cut– it was that uneven. He’s definitely more vain than any male I know and fah-REAK-ed out.  Turns out he was headed down to Munich to spend Easter with some extended family today and needed it fixed ASAP.  Luckily he was able to go into Am Sande and persuade a hairdresser who was starting to close that his was a desperate situation.  I should be sorry, but I was laughing much too hard to choke out any words.

Today we had our last test in Intermediate German I before the final next week and it was HARD.   We’re in the big leagues now, kiddies– no coddling us with translations in the directions, much much more homework, a presentation due in two weeks.  I could not for the life of me remember the word for “tie” auf Deutsch, and ended up getting it wrong.  After I flung some papers off my desk and proclaimed inevitable suicide later this afternoon, my teacher kindly reminded me it was only worth half a point. Damn first born perfectionism.  Afterward, however, we had AN EASTER EGG HUNT.  I love our teacher.  We had two teams and answered questions for the chance to go find candy hidden around the room.  German chocolate is a million times better than the best Hershey’s/ Dove/ whatever you’ll find in America.  It was ridiculously fun and a nice way to get our minds off the fact that the majority of us probably failed the exam.

Keeping in line with the Easter theme… Germans don’t celebrate Maunday Thursday, though tomorrow is a national holiday for Karfreitag and it seems most of the churches in town have some sort of service.  On Saturday, each town has an Easter bonfire at dusk– not really sure what that’s about, but I plan on checking it out and I’ll report back.  For the main event,  there are three big, ancient churches with giant steeples in town and I’ve gone ahead and chosen a favorite.  Their first service on Easter Sunday is at FIVE-THIRTY AM (I realize Jesus resurrected, but I’m quite certain even he didn’t get up that early) which is followed by a baptism and breakfast, but I’ll be attending the 10 am service with Communion.  Afterward (drumroll, please) I’ll be making and serving Easter dinner for my friends who are sticking around town.  Since I have this giant apartment to myself, and we just got a new stove, and I am my mother’s daughter, her mother’s granddaughter, and my uncle’s niece, I will be throwing THE premiere event of the semester complete with flowers, a ham, napkin folds, place settings, etc.  (Okay, so absolutely all of this is still in the planning stages, but I promise it will be more than wurst on paper plates and a Cadbury egg for all the guests.)  Sadly, hominy does not exist in Germany– after searching for it in the story, the Internet told me it was most likely a no go.  [For all of you besides the four readers who might know what I'm talking about, we have hominy (corn without the hull, soaked in lye?  Or something like that?) for Easter each year because my grandfather loves it.  And while it sounds kinda gross and I gagged on it for 15+ years, I've been warming to it the last couple times.]

My semester book is going together really well.  It’s much longer than it needs to be, and I can’t quite get over the flashbacks of Weems’ “You won’t walk at graduation until this book is done!” threats, but I’m oddly having fun with it.  I had two internship interviews this past week, one over the phone and one via Skype, and I don’t think I managed to flub up either of them too terribly. I’m currently walking the fine line between cautious optimism and realistic pessimism when it comes to my summer plans, but I really really REALLY don’t wanna just be schlepping sandwiches for slightly more than minimum wage for three months.  Why can’t someone just pay me to blog and speak my new trademark language of Spanglerman?

 
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